reede, 28. detsember 2012

Helmut Langi teemat arendades/Elaborating upon the topic Helmut Lang

Jätkame seda teemat. Tuli meelde, et eelmisel aastal Ravelrys Brenda alustas Helmut Langi disaini artuelu, ainult tollal oli kõne all trikotaaž, s.o. juba algusest peale kudumitena kavandatud riided ja mitte "tõlkimine", millest rääkisin hiljutises postituses. Kes on Ravelrys registreeritud, võib seda teemat lugeda siin.
Let us continue discussing this topic. I recalled that last year Brenda started discussing Helmut Lang designs on Ravelry, only that it was about knitwear, that is, something already designed as such and not "translation/interpretation" as described in my recent post. Those of you who are registered on Ravelry, can read this.
Nagu näha on, varrukate alumine osa on kontrastset värvi. Alguses mõtlesin, et püüan teha n-ö degradé efektiga: esialgu must peenike lõng + lilla mohäär, pärast lilla peenvillane + lilla mohäär. Selgus aga huvitav asi: must peenike meriino (firmalt BBB, 100 g/1500 m) ei anna niisugust efekti, ta ei ole mohääriga n-ö võrdne (rääkimata mohääri "ärasöömisest"), pigem jääb domineerima mohäär. Värv muutub pisut tumedamaks (minu jaoks hea), samas ei muutu koepind sigri-migriks. Hea leid, nõnda võin kombineerida mistahes mohääriga, kartmata soovimatut kirjusust. Siis oli selge, et kui degradé ei mängi välja, olgu siis lihtne kontrast.
As you can see, the bottom of the sleeves is in contrasting colour. At first I planned the so-called degradé effect: at first to combine black laceweight yarn with the purple mohair and then purple laceweight wool with the purple mohair. However, something interesting become apparent: the black fine merino (by BBB, 100 g/1500 m) does not yield this efect because it is not equal with mohair (not speaking of "eating up" the mohair); it is rather mohair that dominates. The colour becomes somewhat darker (good for me), at the same time the fabric does not turn into mélange. A good trick, this is how I can combine it with any mohair without the danger of undesired mélange. It was clear then that while degradé does not work out, I'll go for a simple contrast.
Varrukad näevad välja, nagu oleks alt laienevad. Tehniliselt pole aga nii, on sirge toru, lihtsalt kahandusi ei ole. Nüüd on aga teine küsimus. Mõtlesin eile, et võiks kududa lausa kleidiks, all võiks olla samasugune lilla sektsioon. Siin on aga 2 "aga": 1) ei taha lõnga juurde osta ja 2) tähtsam kaalutlus, kas mohäärist kleit või tuunika ei lisa visuaalselt mitu head kilo. Igal juhul peab veel pikemaks kuduma, aga kui lugejatel on sel teemal midagi lisada, siis loen hea meelega.
The sleeves look like they are wider in the bottom. Technically, this is not true, it is a straight tube, only there are no decreases. Now there is another question. I was thinking yesterday that I could turn it into a dress altogether with the same purple section in the bottom. But there are 2 counterarguments: 1) I don't want to buy more yarn and 2) a more important consideration is, whether a mohair dress or tunic will visually add a considerable number of kilogramms. I have to make it longer in any case but if the readers have anything to say on the matter, I would read your comments with a greatest appreciation.

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